2/15/2015

Tine Sews: The Grey Coat

Last weekend I recovered from a night out with colleagues that lasted until 4 am and when I was done with running errants, I started sewing in the afternoon. I had already cut the pieces for the grey coat from my beloved Wool Mix Ede fabric and only had to sew the parts together. 
Then on Sunday I met with a friend to have brunch in the Hafencity in Hamburg and after that we strolled along the Speicherstadt in the most beautiful weather. That's where we took the picture above.
The grey coat is from a pattern mash-up, that I did myself. I used the bodice an sleeves of Burda 128 9/2002 and combined it with the collar and front of Burda 127 9/2002. I figured that, since the patterns are from the same issue, there shouldn't be a problem with matching the parts and apart from the fact that the front pieces where 5 cm longer than the bodice of 128 I could easily combine the two. I drafted a lining from the pattern pieces, but eliminated some seams.
The jacket fron has to diagonal seams that feature pockets. It's a bit weird, that they are lower in the fron than in the side, because it's a bit strange to put your hands in. But it works. And they are the perfect size to store a tablet or keys.
I love the biker jacket feel of the jacket and think that the cream zipper is a nice touch. I could've used a shorter zipper, since I always have to leave the zip a tad bit open to get a smooth collar, but I will think about that, when I use the pattern a second time. I'm dreaming of a red or pink version now.
They feature a diagonal seam in the front, which include a pocket. The pocket is the perfect size to store a tablet or keys. It's a bit strange that they are higher on the side than on the front and first I thought, that it would be strange to put my hands in, but it works.
As on my trenchcoat I have the same issue with a weird pulling on the back. I really need to find the cause of that to be able to change future projects accordingly.
I had the problem that the collar was slightly longer than the back, so I just made a pleat there. It looked weird, when it was open, so I did some handstitching to tack the pleat down. I have to remember cutting the back pieces less wide next time.
The collar is quite wide and topstitched along the edges.The front is fused with fusible interfacing to give it a little more body. There is topstitching along the zipper as well.

The length is just right, only the sleeves could be about three centimentres longer. But I cut the lining on the sleeves a tid bit short when I bagged the lining and so I have to live with it. It's okay, but could be better.
Detail shot of the back, with the top stitching along the pleat.
I thought about adding a coat hanger this time. So much more practical than without.
I hope you like the coat as much as I do! I've worn it almost every day since I finished it and it's perfect it the current chilly weather.

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