2/08/2015

Tine Sews: The Pink Metallic Trenchcoat

Okay, so I finally got around to take decent pictures of the trenchcoat, that I made during AnNäherung 2015. Please excuse the picture overload, but I just hat to document all the pretty details. 

At first I planned to do the bodice in pink metallic, but leave the sleeves with the right side of the fabric, which is more of a black shade. But then Heidy helped me to decide and on her advice I did the sleeves in the pink shade too and just do the accent tabs on the sleeve in black. I'm really lucky about that decision. We also decided that only the small accents like shoulder tabs and front tab should be in black and all the other pieces in pink.

This is how I wore the coat on the day, after I finished it. I managed to do the whole construction of the coat on the weekend and only had to attach the buttons on the evening, when I returned from Bielefeld. But my colleagues demanded that I wore the finished coat on Monday and so I sewed the fourteen buttons until the late evening.
I'm closing the front in the way of a mens coat, because it works better with the collar and the gun flap. Also, the trench is originally a menswear piece, so why not do it the mens way?
I can wear the trench with a belt, but I prefer it actually without. I think its a good shape and I still haven't found the perfect belt closure, so I can't really belt it anyway.
Also the back looks a little bit strange, when I belt the coat. I had lots of discussion on what to do with the strange pulling of the back under the arms and on the back. I inserted shoulder pads, which Mema kindly brought me and it's better than at the beginning, but it's still pulling strangely. I have the problem with another coat too and I don't know what's wrong with my back. Any ideas?
 Maybe it's coming from the hips? Is it too tight there?
 Here I'm wearing the coat belted.
I'm wearing the coat in these pictures with my me-made jeans and a pair of boots from Bon Prix. The red socks are me-made too.
Here you can see the fabric really nicely. It's a denim and the black side is the right side and the pink metallic one the wrong side. I wanted the pink to be really shiny, so I used the wrong as the right side. The material is cotton and polyester. It's a twill weave. Unfortunately the fabric is sold out already and can't be reordered. I still have enough leftover to make a matching bag.
The pattern is from Burda and it's the classic trench from an issue of 2010. I still had the issue in my stash and traced a 42, that I then cut with seam allowance. The fit is true to size and if there wasn't the problem with the back, I'd definitely make it again. If there is any advice, I might take the Burberry inspiration further and make it in an African wax print again.
On the hanger the back looks good! Maybe it's the shape of my back, which is the problem? I have dropping shoulders, but that can't be the only reason for the pulling, could it be?
I lined the coat with a black acetate lining. I did the sleeves the proper way and learned a new technique which is called "shaking hands" from Wiebke.
The buttons have their own story. I got them off Ebay, where my brother ordered them for me, as I still don't have an Ebay account. They are metallic bronze buttons and they were the cheapest I could find. For this coat the instructions said that I needed 16 buttons. I found some very pretty ones at work, but they were quite expensive, if you nedd 16 of them. So I checked out different shops and even drove especially to a shop in Hamburg, only to find out they're not open on a Saturday. So I found these and still have some buttons leftover, if there should ever go one missing.
I hope you like the trenchcoat as much as I do. I can't wait for spring temperatures to be finally able to wear it more often. It's okay on mild days with a sweater, but it should be perfect in March and April.

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